| Setting
Up and Adjusting Your Balance Bar |
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In
our experience, one item that people often get "wrong"
is the balance bar. As this component is central to the overall
efficiency, and performance of the braking system, listed below
are a few pointers that should help you to set up, and adjust
the balance bar, therefore obtaining maximum benefit and optimum
performance from your brake system.
The
side to side end float of the balance bar within its housing
should be approximately 2mm. To obtain this clearance, one of
the clevises should be screwed on or off the bar as required.
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| Push
rod adjustment: This must be carried out with the brake system
bled, and the pads fitted. The object of this exercise is to ensure
that the balance bar lies square within its housing, and at 90
degrees to the master cylinders when the pedal is depressed. To
obtain this setting adjust the pushrod lengths, which normally
means the front rod being 6 to 10mm longer than the rear. Then
with a normal load applied to the pedal, the push rods should
appear the same length, and the balance bar square to the pedal,
The above settings are very important, and once set should not
be disturbed. |
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One
other important point, when carrying out the above adjustments
it is essential that the master cylinder pistons return fully,
with the push rods back against their retaining washers. Check
that there is no interference on the pedal such as stoplight switch
that prevents the master cylinders coming fully off. |
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| Setting
the brake balance: Before this can be done it will be necessary
to bed in the pads and get the brakes up to a normal operating
temperature Brake balance can vary from driver to driver, but
for tarmac rallying or circuit use most drivers prefer to have
a slight bias towards the front. This is best achieved by carrying
out a series of stops (high speed is not necessary). |
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Remember,
adjusting the master cylinder push rods does not adjust the
brake balance!!!
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